Reggae Hit Bulgaria

Last night I was visiting the family that has most recently adopted me for some very pleasant salad, rakia and conversation on a hot summer evening. During our conversation they asked if I could come over sometime to help their granddaughter figure out their new computer. Since they are so ridiculously awesome to me, there is no way I would say no, especially considering that, of the kids on the block, this little girl is “my favorite” (yeah, I play favorites).

So, today after work, as promised I went over to try and help her. She had pretty basic questions, like how to get her music CDs on the computer and work winamp. After that stuff, she asked how she could see kids shows and things on the internet. I immediately hesitated, knowing all the terrible things on the internet that I wouldn’t want this sweet little 7 year old girl to see. But, I figured, might as well try.

We went to what I’ll call the Balkan youtube, Vbox7, and like youtube it advertises popular videos on the main page. The first clip I saw advertised I would deem graphic for a little girl, but it was one of many so I ignored it and asked her what she wanted to look up.

her: “frank li..”
me: “what?”
her: “Franklin!”

Ahh, that green turtle cartoon. I looked it up and immediately we got a page full of totally 7 year old angel friendly videos. We then sat and watched some parts of episodes and I couldn’t help but noticing that, much like most children’s cartoons, Franklin was full of what might be called “positive” or subliminal messages for little kids. Good things, mostly.

For example, when all the characters were riding bikes, they all put on helmets before getting on. Now, whether or not I want to admit it, I can’t deny that these entertaining cartoon characters are way more likely to “lead by example” wearing a helmet than her screwy American neighbor.

So, you know, despite that there are things that I might think it’s bad for her to watch, there are also probably a lot of things that will send good messages. Also, since it’s the internet and it’s instant, she gets to watch what she pleases, when she pleases, commercial free. Therefore she won’t waste time sitting in front of the TV watching something she doesn’t like just to get to the show she wants. In other words, gone are the days where we all watched “Hey Dude” because it aired before “Salute Your Shorts”.

On the other side, it’s also “as much as she wants”. Meaning, beyond the might of parents and siblings there is nothing that can stop her from watching Franklin for 10 hours non-stop, as opposed to once or twice daily half-hour TV installments. There is kind of this addictive side to the internet that I think we all know and it’s a lot easier to stare at the screen you can control and change all day than the one controlled by major networks.

I mean, daytime TV was universally crap as a child so there wasn’t much to pull us away from running around outside and subsequently staying healthy. However, online counterstrike with your friends is basically intense and sweet all the time when you’re 10, so you might not be as inclined to get outside (I hear BG parents complain about how all kids do is sit in front of computers, though I don’t know if it’s worse than we were with console games).

Certainly, there are other pros and cons, but I thought it was interesting that the bad messages and good messages were so apparent. I think kids growing up with internet is a little different than just growing up with TV and video games like me, but at the end of the day, more often than not I see all the kids on my block running around outside, playing games and riding bikes (though not like Franklin). So, you know, it’s not the end of the world, I just hope the good outweighs the bad.

No matter what it’s harder for parents to control though. I mean, when your mom is buying the video game, she can lay down the veto on the blood and guts games. And when networks are geared towards certain age brackets, it’s easy enough for parents to monitor. The internet on the other hand, well, thankfully there is no such censorship and it remains free, which is great, but complicated and trickier for a parent or guardian to watch over.

Anyway, I’m pretty balanced on this issue. Kids with cell phones, on the other hand, I think is outrageous.

Found this band, Balkan Beat Box, on the interwebs. Apparently made up of internationals (from Israel and other places) who met in New York. One of the members used to be in Gogol Bordello, a so-called “gypsy-punk band”.

Anyway, this song is called “Bulgarian Chicks” and while I thought it might sing about the devastatingly beautiful Bulgarian women, it turned out to be called that since the vocals are traditional Bulgarian singing. But, instead of being sung over traditional instruments, it is done over a sweet rhythmic beat with all kinds of horns. So many flavors. Awesome.

Check out their other stuff, it had me rocking out in a strange Balkan way in my apartment, even if the dudes aren’t from the Balkans.

Next stop, Kresna!

My what a nice place.

So, after our highway waiting game ended my family and I arrived in my town of Kresna. As far as I remember we got settled in the hotel and then strolled around town for them to see everything.

First we went to the municipality, which is about as inspiring as ever. It’s always a little funny showing people who only speak english around places where the people only speak Bulgarian. It makes for about a 5 minute tour. But, that was enough I think.

I reckon later we went to check out the church and see the crypt with bones of soldiers from the Balkan war. We didn’t stay long though, because the baba showing us the crypt got pretty upset at the sight of young peoples bones. We continued on through town and on the way to check out my apartment some of my friendly neighbors waved to us and invited us to join them for lunch.

Turns out it was the day of the holy spirit and they were having a big feast with tons of guests. They seemed honored to have us sit with them and we had a lot of laughs. I was really happy this happened, because for me it’s a classic Bulgarian experience. Just out of nowhere getting told to sit down to a huge meal with tons of happy people. It was great.

They really could not get over how much Colin looks like Jesus. They even busted out a camera to get pictures with him. This was the first time in Bulgaria someone pointed out the resemblance. People are still talking about it.

We sat for a long time and enjoyed all their delicious homemade foods and drinks. The thing my parents and brother could not get over is the first time I really got to know all these people was about a week before they came. I’ve been chatting up the family Baba for a while and finally one day they sat me down, gave me salad and Rakia and we talked for a long time. They actually come from Vlahi (where the Eco-center is) so we talk about that kind of stuff. Anyway, for my family it was amazing that people I’d just really gotten to be friendly with would invite and feed us all.

I was really happy we got to have that experience - a real “na gosti”. Though, the one with my host family was also real, I guess I mean a real “surprise na gosti”. Yup.

After a while we left to see my apartment and make our way back to the hotel. From there I think we went for the walk where I got the photo you see above. It’s one of my favorite spots from which to view Kresna. On the way down we saw a Russian forestry truck which reminded my dad of his army days in Germany:

After we had dinner in the hotel and then Colin and I went back to my place to crash. We had good laughs and conversations as always. Besides just being with the three of them, the thing I was looking most forward to was having one-on-one time with one of my brothers. My brothers are my best friends in the world, so it meant a lot to me. I really felt recharged, but not nearly as recharged as I’ll be once I see them both together!

The next day I assumed the position of drill sergeant as we planned to walk to Vlahi. Unfortunately by the time we left it was already really hot for walking (left around 9 I think — when I walk I try to leave around 5:30). We strolled along and enjoyed the scenery of Kresna gardens. After a bit of walking we lucked out as my friend Tosho passed in his jeep and stopped for us. He then gave us a lift to Vlahi, which made things much easier.

Colin documented the eco-center like crazy with my camera and in general I think my family was really interested in all of the ecological and traditional things we have done to make our center. Starting with this picture are all the shots he took, but to warn you a lot of them would require some explanation.

Anyway, since he had the camera, here I am sitting on our dry stone wall next to the center:

Here is the inside of the unfortunately falling down Vlahi church. It was built in 1912 (when the village was still probably one of the regional hubs with over 2,000 people) and is apparently one of the biggest churches in the region.

After checking out the sites and explaining all the awesomeness of the Eco-center, we had a small picnic style lunch and then did a bit more exploring. Eventually Dimitar came back (we passed him on our way up), so my family got to meet the other person I work the most with. I don’t remember if I mentioned it, but in Sofia we went to my NGO’s office and we got to talk to Julia for a while which was great and insightful.

After chatting with Dimitar we began the long, hot walk down. This time we went all the way, which was tiring but quite beautiful. Here they are, by the side of a road, again, taking a break:

But, since it wasn’t a highway and it was a village road next to beautiful gardens where an old man friend of mine gave us fruit, we were all much happier! Just look at those grape vines!

After we went back to shower and what not after sweating in the heat, then went out to the best restaurant in Kresna. Unfortunately, it was another 2 kilometer walk, but it sure was tasty.

OK. That’s all for now, the next installment includes the last leg of the trip where we go further south to Sandanski and Melnik. Unfortunately, there will not be a photo with my family waiting on the side of a road for that one.

Before I continue the suspenseful tale of the Lodwicks hitting Bulgaria, I thought I would give you a weather update.

Remember all my whining about the winter and how I had to get dressed up to be in my apartment? Well, now it is something like the absolute total opposite. It is simply ЖЕГА (pronounced zhega).

ЖЕГА
(sweltering) heat, swelter;

умирам от ЖЕГА broil;

страшна/ужасна ЖЕГА е it’s sweltering/ broiling hot;

припадам от ЖЕГА have a heat stroke.

Yup. It’s hot. Instead of layering up to kick it in my apartment I take off work clothes and just wear running shorts. Instead of shivering in misery while hand washing my clothes, I pour sweat. Instead of confining my living space to the kitchen, I try to keep the apartment sealed up and dark during the day so the room I sleep in stays cool.

The only thing that’s the same is my diet, which is a problem because lentil soup is not exactly ideal when you are already boiling.

And think, it’s only June!

(Lucky for me Vlahi is not as hot as Kresna and there I have a nice cold river to swim in. My apologies go out to all Peace Corps volunteers who will be sitting in offices the majority of the summer)

And boy was it awesome.

My mom, dad and brother Colin came to Bulgaria for about 8 days. Sadly, my oldest brother, Scott, could not come, however, I think Bulgaria might have exploded from the combined intensity of the three of us. Anyway, although they were only here for about a week we managed to spend the time very well. We stayed busy but no rushed; did lots of things but did not feel like super-tourists. It was a nice balance and I think they had some authentic Bulgarian experiences (even if it did mean ordering from the same menu 90% of the time!).
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